Indian subcontinent Jewellery

two-tiered enamel earrings, late 18th-early 19th century. qajar dynasty. brooklyn museum.

the indian subcontinent (encompassing india, pakistan , other countries of south asia) has long jewellery history, went through various changes through cultural influence , politics more 5,000–8,000 years. because india had abundant supply of precious metals , gems, prospered financially through export , exchange other countries. while european traditions heavily influenced waxing , waning empires, india enjoyed continuous development of art forms 5,000 years. 1 of first start jewellery making peoples of indus valley civilization (encompassing present-day pakistan , north , northwest india). 1500 bc, peoples of indus valley creating gold earrings , necklaces, bead necklaces, , metallic bangles. before 2100 bc, prior period when metals used, largest jewellery trade in indus valley region bead trade. beads in indus valley made using simple techniques. first, bead maker need rough stone, bought eastern stone trader. stone placed hot oven heated until turned deep red, colour highly prized people of indus valley. red stone chipped right size , hole bored through primitive drills. beads polished. beads painted designs. art form passed down through family. children of bead makers learned how work beads young age. persian style played big role in india’s jewellery. each stone had own characteristics related hinduism.

jewellery in indus valley worn predominantly females, wore numerous clay or shell bracelets on wrists. shaped doughnuts , painted black. on time, clay bangles discarded more durable ones. in present-day india, bangles made out of metal or glass. other pieces women wore thin bands of gold worn on forehead, earrings, primitive brooches, chokers, , gold rings. although women wore jewellery most, men in indus valley wore beads. small beads crafted placed in men , women’s hair. beads 1 millimetre long.

a female skeleton (presently on display @ national museum, new delhi, india) wears carlinean bangle (bracelet) on left hand. kada special kind of bracelet , popular in indian culture. symbolizes animals peacock, elephant, etc.

according hindu belief, gold , silver considered sacred metals. gold symbolic of warm sun, while silver suggests cool moon. both quintessential metals of indian jewellery. pure gold not oxidise or corrode time, why hindu tradition associates gold immortality. gold imagery occurs in ancient indian literature. in vedic hindu belief of cosmological creation, source of physical , spiritual human life originated in , evolved golden womb (hiranyagarbha) or egg (hiranyanda), metaphor of sun, light rises primordial waters.

antique pearl & gold nose ring, india, 19th century

jewellery had great status india’s royalty; powerful established laws, limiting wearing of jewellery royalty. royalty , few others whom granted permission wear gold ornaments on feet. considered breaking appreciation of sacred metals. though majority of indian population wore jewellery, maharajas , people related royalty had deeper connection jewellery. maharaja s role important hindu philosophers identified him central smooth working of world. considered divine being, deity in human form, duty uphold , protect dharma, moral order of universe.

a navaratna ring.

navaratna (nine gems)is powerful jewel worn maharaja (emperor). amulet, comprises diamond, pearl, ruby, sapphire, emerald, topaz, cat’s eye, coral, , hyacinth (red zircon). each of these stones associated celestial deity, represented totality of hindu universe when 9 gems together. diamond powerful gem among 9 stones. there various cuts gemstone. indian kings bought gemstones privately sellers. maharaja , other royal family members value gem hindu god. exchanged gems people whom close, royal family members , other intimate allies. emperor himself, intimate relations, , select members of entourage permitted wear royal turban ornament. empire matured, differing styles of ornament acquired generic name of sarpech, sar or sir, meaning head, , pech, meaning fastener.

india first country mine diamonds, mines dating 296 bc. india traded diamonds, realising valuable qualities. historically, diamonds have been given retain or regain lover’s or ruler’s lost favour, symbols of tribute, or expression of fidelity in exchange concessions , protection. mughal emperors , kings used diamonds means of assuring immortality having names , wordly titles inscribed upon them. moreover, has played , continues play pivotal role in indian social, political, economic, , religious event, has done elsewhere. in indian history, diamonds have been used acquire military equipment, finance wars, foment revolutions, , tempt defections. have contributed abdication or decapitation of potentates. have been used murder representative of dominating power lacing food crushed diamond. indian diamonds have been used security finance large loans needed buttress politically or economically tottering regimes. victorious military heroes have been honoured rewards of diamonds , have been used ransom payment release imprisonment or abduction.

today, many of jewellery designs , traditions used, , jewellery commonplace in indian ceremonies , weddings.