Reception Esparza's

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exterior signage in 2014


the restaurant received positive reception, including glowing reviews in bon appétit , new york times. in 1992, esparza s named oregonian s restaurant of year . according paper, restaurant played important role in developing ne , se 28th avenue food destination. portland monthly called food so-so , noted menu, outdoor patio , jukebox, encouraging people bask in indecipherable harmonies of norteño polka crackling vintage vinyl-and-neon wurlitzer .


esparza s highlighted in numerous travel guides of portland. fodor s published, prepared south-of-the-border craziness @ beloved local eatery. wild west kitsch festoons walls, isn t wilder of entrées emerge chef-owner joe esparza s kitchen. in book insiders guide portland, oregon, rachel dresbeck called menu spicy, flavorful, , tantalizingly aromatic , , described atmosphere 1950s texas soda shop—just right accent complement hearty fare . yahoo! travel called restaurant fun, wild , woolly , offering food in true tradition of lone star state . yahoo! recommended chile rellenos, ostrich enchiladas, or nopalito unique dining experience.


the restaurant did not receive universal acclaim, however. in negative review portland mercury in 2000, robin rosenberg wrote:



... 1 expects food @ esparza s special; might think line trickling out door on thursday night indication of exceptional tex-mex, worth considerable sum. well, certainly, esparza s dècor, amalgam of western nostalgia, texan brawn, , tijuana cheese executed flair. unfortunately though, no thematic coup can compensate fact esparza s food exceeds mediocre, , never lives price... bulk of clientele resides in comfortable economic bracket , come down gritty eastside quaff top shelf margaritas , feast on manic kitsch. hot corn chips , fresh salsa, come fast , free, height of meal. smoked salmon enchiladas wrong; no quantity of barbecue sauce (in case, cloying , acrid) going improve tough, dry brisket. pork tacos equally dry, ground buffalo enchiladas macho , spicy (though linger painfully)... beans , rice accompany entrees utterly flavorless, gratuitous use of space on plate. people beans , rice; esparza s doesn t seem care. s troublesome adage, pay for, when ve gorged on flash , formula—and yet, re starved meal.



following restaurant s closure, oregonian s grant butler called run had remarkable . recalled, [w]hen esparza s opened in 1990, broke mold of mexican fare in portland be. instead of combination plates blanketed in shrouds of sour cream , melted cheddar, esparza s served dishes few people in portlanders [sic] had ever experienced @ time .








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