History Jewellery

1 history

1.1 prehistory

1.1.1 egypt


1.2 europe , middle east

1.2.1 mesopotamia
1.2.2 greece
1.2.3 rome
1.2.4 middle ages
1.2.5 renaissance
1.2.6 romanticism
1.2.7 18th century / romanticism/ renaissance
1.2.8 art nouveau
1.2.9 art deco


1.3 asia

1.3.1 china
1.3.2 indian subcontinent


1.4 north , south america
1.5 native american
1.6 pacific

history

the history of jewellery long , goes many years, many different uses among different cultures. has endured thousands of years , has provided various insights how ancient cultures worked.

prehistory

the first signs of jewellery came people in africa. perforated beads suggesting shell jewellery made sea snail shells have been found dating 75,000 years ago @ blombos cave. in kenya, @ enkapune ya muto, beads made perforated ostrich egg shells have been dated more 40,000 years ago. in russia, stone bracelet , marble ring attributed similar age.

later, european modern humans had crude necklaces , bracelets of bone, teeth, berries, , stone hung on pieces of string or animal sinew, or pieces of carved bone used secure clothing together. in cases, jewellery had shell or mother-of-pearl pieces. decorated engraved pendant dating around 11,000 bc, , thought oldest mesolithic art in britain, found @ site of star carr in north yorkshire in 2015. in southern russia, carved bracelets made of mammoth tusk have been found. venus of hohle fels features perforation @ top, showing intended worn pendant.

around seven-thousand years ago, first sign of copper jewellery seen. in october 2012 museum of ancient history in lower austria revealed had found grave of female jewellery worker – forcing archaeologists take fresh @ prehistoric gender roles after appeared of female fine metal worker – profession thought have been carried out exclusively men.

egypt

amulet pendant (1254 bc) made gold, lapis lazuli, turquoise , carnelian, 14 cm wide.



an egyptian 18th dynasty pharaonic era princess crown.

the first signs of established jewellery making in ancient egypt around 3,000–5,000 years ago. egyptians preferred luxury, rarity, , workability of gold on other metals. in predynastic egypt jewellery began symbolise political , religious power in community. although worn wealthy egyptians in life, worn them in death, jewellery commonly placed among grave goods.

in conjunction gold jewellery, egyptians used coloured glass, along semi-precious gems. colour of jewellery had significance. green, example, symbolised fertility. lapis lazuli , silver had imported beyond country’s borders.

egyptian designs common in phoenician jewellery. also, ancient turkish designs found in persian jewellery suggest trade between middle east , europe not uncommon. women wore elaborate gold , silver pieces used in ceremonies.

europe , middle east
mesopotamia

pair of gold hair ornaments, mesopotamian, circa 2000 bc (isin-larsa period). decorated granulation , cloisonné. walters art museum collections.

by approximately 5,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become significant craft in cities of mesopotamia. significant archaeological evidence comes royal cemetery of ur, hundreds of burials dating 2900–2300 bc unearthed; tombs such of puabi contained multitude of artefacts in gold, silver, , semi-precious stones, such lapis lazuli crowns embellished gold figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, , jewel-headed pins. in assyria, men , women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including amulets, ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, , cylinder seals.

jewellery in mesopotamia tended manufactured thin metal leaf , set large numbers of brightly coloured stones (chiefly agate, lapis, carnelian, , jasper). favoured shapes included leaves, spirals, cones, , bunches of grapes. jewellers created works both human use , adorning statues , idols. employed wide variety of sophisticated metalworking techniques, such cloisonné, engraving, fine granulation, , filigree.

extensive , meticulously maintained records pertaining trade , manufacture of jewellery have been unearthed throughout mesopotamian archaeological sites. 1 record in mari royal archives, example, gives composition of various items of jewellery:

1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 34 flat speckled chalcedony bead, [and] 35 gold fluted beads, in groups of five.
1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 39 flat speckled chalcedony beads, [with] 41 fluted beads in group make hanging device.
1 necklace rounded lapis lazuli beads including: 28 rounded lapis lazuli beads, [and] 29 fluted beads clasp.


greece

gold earring mycenae, 16th century bc.



gold wreath

the greeks started using gold , gems in jewellery in 1600 bc, although beads shaped shells , animals produced in earlier times. around 1500 bc, main techniques of working gold in greece included casting, twisting bars, , making wire. many of these sophisticated techniques popular in mycenaean period, unfortunately skill lost @ end of bronze age. forms , shapes of jewellery in ancient greece such armring (13th century bc), brooch (10th century bc) , pins (7th century bc), have varied since bronze age well. other forms of jewellery include wreaths, earrings, necklace , bracelets. example of high quality gold working techniques achieve in greece ‘gold olive wreath’ (4th century bc), modeled on type of wreath given prize winners in athletic competitions olympic games. jewellery dating 600 475 bc not represented in archaeological record, after persian wars quantity of jewellery again became more plentiful. 1 particularly popular type of design @ time bracelet decorated snake , animal-heads because these bracelets used considerably more metal, many examples made bronze. 300 bc, greeks had mastered making coloured jewellery , using amethysts, pearl, , emeralds. also, first signs of cameos appeared, greeks creating them indian sardonyx, striped brown pink , cream agate stone. greek jewellery simpler in other cultures, simple designs , workmanship. however, time progressed, designs grew in complexity , different materials used.

pendant naked woman, made electrum, rhodes, around 630–620 bc.

jewellery in greece hardly worn , used public appearances or on special occasions. given gift , predominantly worn women show wealth, social status, , beauty. jewellery supposed give wearer protection evil eye or endowed owner supernatural powers, while others had religious symbolism. older pieces of jewellery have been found dedicated gods.

ancient greek jewellery 300 bc.

they worked 2 styles of pieces: cast pieces , pieces hammered out of sheet metal. fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered. made casting metal onto 2 stone or clay moulds. 2 halves joined together, , wax, followed molten metal, placed in centre. technique had been practised since late bronze age. more common form of jewellery hammered sheet type. sheets of metal hammered thickness , soldered together. inside of 2 sheets filled wax or liquid preserve metal work. different techniques, such using stamp or engraving, used create motifs on jewellery. jewels may added hollows or glass poured special cavities on surface. greeks took of designs outer origins, such asia, when alexander great conquered part of it. in earlier designs, other european influences can detected. when roman rule came greece, no change in jewellery designs detected. however, 27 bc, greek designs heavily influenced roman culture. not indigenous design did not thrive. numerous polychrome butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating 1st century, have been found near olbia, 1 example ever found anywhere else.

these hellenistic bracelets 1st century bc show influence of eastern cultures. walters art museum, baltimore.



hexagonal gold pendant double solidus of constantine great, 1 of set of 4 date 321 ad (british museum)


rome

roman amethyst intaglio engraved gem, c. 212 ad; later regarded of st. peter.

although jewellery work abundantly diverse in earlier times, among barbarian tribes such celts, when romans conquered of europe, jewellery changed smaller factions developed roman designs. common artefact of rome brooch, used secure clothing together. romans used diverse range of materials jewellery extensive resources across continent. although used gold, used bronze or bone, , in earlier times, glass beads & pearl. 2,000 years ago, imported sri lankan sapphires , indian diamonds , used emeralds , amber in jewellery. in roman-ruled england, fossilised wood called jet northern england carved pieces of jewellery. italians worked in crude gold , created clasps, necklaces, earrings, , bracelets. produced larger pendants filled perfume.

like greeks, purpose of roman jewellery ward off evil eye given other people. although women wore vast array of jewellery, men wore finger ring. although expected wear @ least 1 ring, roman men wore ring on every finger, while others wore none. roman men , women wore rings engraved gem on used wax seal documents, practice continued medieval times when kings , noblemen used same method. after fall of roman empire, jewellery designs absorbed neighbouring countries , tribes.

middle ages

merovingian fibulae, bibliothèque nationale de france.



6th century bronze eagle-shaped visigothic cloisonné fibula guadalajara, spain, using glass-paste fillings in imitation of garnets.

post-roman europe continued develop jewellery making skills. celts , merovingians in particular noted jewellery, in terms of quality matched or exceeded of byzantine empire. clothing fasteners, amulets, and, lesser extent, signet rings, common artefacts known us. particularly striking celtic example tara brooch. torc common throughout europe symbol of status , power. 8th century, jewelled weaponry common men, while other jewellery (with exception of signet rings) seemed become domain of women. grave goods found in 6th–7th century burial near chalon-sur-saône illustrative. young girl buried with: 2 silver fibulae, necklace (with coins), bracelet, gold earrings, pair of hair-pins, comb, , buckle. celts specialised in continuous patterns , designs, while merovingian designs best known stylised animal figures. not groups known high quality work. note visigoth work shown here, , numerous decorative objects found @ anglo-saxon ship burial @ sutton hoo suffolk, england particularly well-known example. on continent, cloisonné , garnet perhaps quintessential method , gemstone of period.

byzantine wedding ring.

the eastern successor of roman empire, byzantine empire, continued many of methods of romans, though religious themes came predominate. unlike romans, franks, , celts, however, byzantium used light-weight gold leaf rather solid gold, , more emphasis placed on stones , gems. in west, byzantine jewellery worn wealthier females, male jewellery apparently restricted signet rings. woman s jewellery had peculiarities kolts decorated headband. other contemporary cultures, jewellery commonly buried owner.

renaissance

sardonyx cameo.

the renaissance , exploration both had significant impacts on development of jewellery in europe. 17th century, increasing exploration , trade led increased availability of wide variety of gemstones exposure art of other cultures. whereas prior working of gold , precious metal had been @ forefront of jewellery, period saw increasing dominance of gemstones , settings. example of cheapside hoard, stock of jeweller hidden in london during commonwealth period , not found again until 1912. contained colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite brazil, spinel, iolite, , chrysoberyl sri lanka, ruby india, afghan lapis lazuli, persian turquoise, red sea peridot, bohemian , hungarian opal, garnet, , amethyst. large stones set in box-bezels on enamelled rings. notable among merchants of period jean-baptiste tavernier, brought precursor stone of hope diamond france in 1660s.

when napoleon bonaparte crowned emperor of french in 1804, revived style , grandeur of jewellery , fashion in france. under napoleon’s rule, jewellers introduced parures, suites of matching jewellery, such diamond tiara, diamond earrings, diamond rings, diamond brooch, , diamond necklace. both of napoleon’s wives had beautiful sets such these , wore them regularly. fashion trend resurrected napoleon cameo. after cameo decorated crown seen, cameos highly sought. period saw stages of costume jewellery, fish scale covered glass beads in place of pearls or conch shell cameos instead of stone cameos. new terms coined differentiate arts: jewellers worked in cheaper materials called bijoutiers, while jewellers worked expensive materials called joailliers, practice continues day.

romanticism

mourning jewellery in form of jet brooch, 19th century.

starting in late 18th century, romanticism had profound impact on development of western jewellery. perhaps significant influences public’s fascination treasures being discovered through birth of modern archaeology , fascination medieval , renaissance art. changing social conditions , onset of industrial revolution led growth of middle class wanted , afford jewellery. result, use of industrial processes, cheaper alloys, , stone substitutes led development of paste or costume jewellery. distinguished goldsmiths continued flourish, however, wealthier patrons sought ensure wore still stood apart jewellery of masses, not through use of precious metals , stones though superior artistic , technical work. 1 such artist french goldsmith françois-désiré froment-meurice. category unique period , quite appropriate philosophy of romanticism mourning jewellery. originated in england, queen victoria seen wearing jet jewellery after death of prince albert, , allowed wearer continue wearing jewellery while expressing state of mourning @ death of loved one.

in united states, period saw founding in 1837 of tiffany & co. charles lewis tiffany. tiffany s put united states on world map in terms of jewellery , gained fame creating dazzling commissions people such wife of abraham lincoln. later, gain popular notoriety setting of film breakfast @ tiffany s. in france, pierre cartier founded cartier sa in 1847, while 1884 saw founding of bulgari in italy. modern production studio had been born , step away former dominance of individual craftsmen , patronage.

this period saw first major collaboration between east , west. collaboration in pforzheim between german , japanese artists led shakudō plaques set filigree frames being created stoeffler firm in 1885). perhaps grand finalé – , appropriate transition following period – masterful creations of russian artist peter carl fabergé, working imperial russian court, fabergé eggs , jewellery pieces still considered epitome of goldsmith’s art.

18th century / romanticism/ renaissance

many whimsical fashions introduced in extravagant eighteenth century. cameos used in connection jewellery attractive trinkets along many of small objects such brooches, ear-rings , scarf-pins. of necklets made of several pieces joined gold chains in , bracelets made match necklet , brooch. @ end of century jewellery cut steel intermixed large crystals introduced englishman, matthew boulton of birmingham.

art nouveau

in 1890s, jewellers began explore potential of growing art nouveau style , closely related german jugendstil, british (and extent american) arts , crafts movement, catalan modernisme, austro-hungarian sezession, italian liberty , etc.

art nouveau jewellery encompassed many distinct features including focus on female form , emphasis on colour, commonly rendered through use of enamelling techniques including basse-taille, champleve, cloisonné, , plique-à-jour. motifs included orchids, irises, pansies, vines, swans, peacocks, snakes, dragonflies, mythological creatures, , female silhouette.

rené lalique, working paris shop of samuel bing, recognised contemporaries leading figure in trend. darmstadt artists colony , wiener werkstätte provided perhaps significant input trend, while in denmark georg jensen, though best known silverware, contributed significant pieces. in england, liberty & co. , british arts & crafts movement of charles robert ashbee contributed more linear still characteristic designs. new style moved focus of jeweller s art setting of stones artistic design of piece itself. lalique s dragonfly design 1 of best examples of this. enamels played large role in technique, while sinuous organic lines recognisable design feature.

the end of world war once again changed public attitudes, , more sober style developed.

art deco

growing political tensions, after-effects of war, , reaction against perceived decadence of turn of 20th century led simpler forms, combined more effective manufacturing mass production of high-quality jewellery. covering period of 1920s , 1930s, style has become popularly known art deco. walter gropius , german bauhaus movement, philosophy of no barriers between artists , craftsmen led interesting , stylistically simplified forms. modern materials introduced: plastics , aluminium first used in jewellery, , of note chromed pendants of russian-born bauhaus master naum slutzky. technical mastery became valued material itself. in west, period saw reinvention of granulation german elizabeth treskow, although development of re-invention has continued 1990s. based on basic shapes.

asia

royal earrings, india, 1st century bc.



indian king bhupinder singh of patiala wearing patiala necklace contained 2,930 diamonds, including centrepiece, world s seventh largest diamond, de beers , had 428 carat pre-cut weigh, , weighed 234.65 carats in final setting. piece contained 7 other diamonds ranging 18 73 carats, , number of burmese rubies

in asia, indian subcontinent has longest continuous legacy of jewellery making anywhere, history of on 5,000 years. 1 of first start jewellery making peoples of indus valley civilization, in predominately modern-day pakistan , part of northern , western india. jewellery making in china started around same period, became widespread spread of buddhism around 2,000 years ago.

china

the chinese used silver in jewellery more gold. blue kingfisher feathers tied onto chinese jewellery , later, blue gems , glass incorporated designs. however, jade preferred on other stone. chinese revered jade because of human-like qualities assigned it, such hardness, durability, , beauty. first jade pieces simple, time progressed, more complex designs evolved. jade rings between 4th , 7th centuries bc show evidence of having been worked compound milling machine, hundreds of years before first mention of such equipment in west.

jade coiled serpent, han dynasty (202 bc–220 ad)



`xin shape jewellery ming dynasty tombs, (1368–1644)

in china, uncommon piece of jewellery earring, worn neither men nor women. amulets common, chinese symbol or dragon. dragons, chinese symbols, , phoenixes depicted on jewellery designs.

the chinese placed jewellery in graves. chinese graves found archaeologists contain decorative jewellery.

indian subcontinent

two-tiered enamel earrings, late 18th-early 19th century. qajar dynasty. brooklyn museum.

the indian subcontinent (encompassing india, pakistan , other countries of south asia) has long jewellery history, went through various changes through cultural influence , politics more 5,000–8,000 years. because india had abundant supply of precious metals , gems, prospered financially through export , exchange other countries. while european traditions heavily influenced waxing , waning empires, india enjoyed continuous development of art forms 5,000 years. 1 of first start jewellery making peoples of indus valley civilization (encompassing present-day pakistan , north , northwest india). 1500 bc, peoples of indus valley creating gold earrings , necklaces, bead necklaces, , metallic bangles. before 2100 bc, prior period when metals used, largest jewellery trade in indus valley region bead trade. beads in indus valley made using simple techniques. first, bead maker need rough stone, bought eastern stone trader. stone placed hot oven heated until turned deep red, colour highly prized people of indus valley. red stone chipped right size , hole bored through primitive drills. beads polished. beads painted designs. art form passed down through family. children of bead makers learned how work beads young age. persian style played big role in india’s jewellery. each stone had own characteristics related hinduism.

jewellery in indus valley worn predominantly females, wore numerous clay or shell bracelets on wrists. shaped doughnuts , painted black. on time, clay bangles discarded more durable ones. in present-day india, bangles made out of metal or glass. other pieces women wore thin bands of gold worn on forehead, earrings, primitive brooches, chokers, , gold rings. although women wore jewellery most, men in indus valley wore beads. small beads crafted placed in men , women’s hair. beads 1 millimetre long.

a female skeleton (presently on display @ national museum, new delhi, india) wears carlinean bangle (bracelet) on left hand. kada special kind of bracelet , popular in indian culture. symbolizes animals peacock, elephant, etc.

according hindu belief, gold , silver considered sacred metals. gold symbolic of warm sun, while silver suggests cool moon. both quintessential metals of indian jewellery. pure gold not oxidise or corrode time, why hindu tradition associates gold immortality. gold imagery occurs in ancient indian literature. in vedic hindu belief of cosmological creation, source of physical , spiritual human life originated in , evolved golden womb (hiranyagarbha) or egg (hiranyanda), metaphor of sun, light rises primordial waters.

antique pearl & gold nose ring, india, 19th century

jewellery had great status india’s royalty; powerful established laws, limiting wearing of jewellery royalty. royalty , few others whom granted permission wear gold ornaments on feet. considered breaking appreciation of sacred metals. though majority of indian population wore jewellery, maharajas , people related royalty had deeper connection jewellery. maharaja s role important hindu philosophers identified him central smooth working of world. considered divine being, deity in human form, duty uphold , protect dharma, moral order of universe.

a navaratna ring.

navaratna (nine gems)is powerful jewel worn maharaja (emperor). amulet, comprises diamond, pearl, ruby, sapphire, emerald, topaz, cat’s eye, coral, , hyacinth (red zircon). each of these stones associated celestial deity, represented totality of hindu universe when 9 gems together. diamond powerful gem among 9 stones. there various cuts gemstone. indian kings bought gemstones privately sellers. maharaja , other royal family members value gem hindu god. exchanged gems people whom close, royal family members , other intimate allies. emperor himself, intimate relations, , select members of entourage permitted wear royal turban ornament. empire matured, differing styles of ornament acquired generic name of sarpech, sar or sir, meaning head, , pech, meaning fastener.

india first country mine diamonds, mines dating 296 bc. india traded diamonds, realising valuable qualities. historically, diamonds have been given retain or regain lover’s or ruler’s lost favour, symbols of tribute, or expression of fidelity in exchange concessions , protection. mughal emperors , kings used diamonds means of assuring immortality having names , wordly titles inscribed upon them. moreover, has played , continues play pivotal role in indian social, political, economic, , religious event, has done elsewhere. in indian history, diamonds have been used acquire military equipment, finance wars, foment revolutions, , tempt defections. have contributed abdication or decapitation of potentates. have been used murder representative of dominating power lacing food crushed diamond. indian diamonds have been used security finance large loans needed buttress politically or economically tottering regimes. victorious military heroes have been honoured rewards of diamonds , have been used ransom payment release imprisonment or abduction. today, many of jewellery designs , traditions used, , jewellery commonplace in indian ceremonies , weddings.

north , south america

jewellery played major role in fate of americas when spanish established empire seize south american gold. jewellery making developed in americas 5,000 years ago in central , south america. large amounts of gold accessible, , aztecs, mixtecs, mayans, , numerous andean cultures, such mochica of peru, created beautiful pieces of jewellery.

with mochica culture, goldwork flourished. pieces no longer simple metalwork, masterful examples of jewellery making. pieces sophisticated in design, , feature inlays of turquoise, mother of pearl, spondylus shell, , amethyst. nose , ear ornaments, chest plates, small containers , whistles considered masterpieces of ancient peruvian culture.

moche ear ornaments. 1–800 ad. larco museum collection, lima-peru

among aztecs, nobility wore gold jewellery, showed rank, power, , wealth. gold jewellery common in aztec empire , decorated feathers quetzal birds , others. in general, more jewellery aztec noble wore, higher status or prestige. emperor , high priests, example, covered in jewellery when making public appearances. although gold common , popular material used in aztec jewellery, jade, turquoise, , feathers considered more valuable. in addition adornment , status, aztecs used jewellery in sacrifices appease gods. priests used gem-encrusted daggers perform animal , human sacrifices.

another ancient american civilization expertise in jewellery making maya. @ peak of civilization, maya making jewellery jade, gold, silver, bronze, , copper. maya designs similar of aztecs, lavish headdresses , jewellery. maya traded in precious gems. however, in earlier times, maya had little access metal, made majority of jewellery out of bone or stone. merchants , nobility few wore expensive jewellery in maya region, same aztecs.

in north america, native americans used shells, wood, turquoise, , soapstone, unavailable in south , central america. turquoise used in necklaces , placed in earrings. native americans access oyster shells, located in 1 location in america, traded shells other tribes, showing great importance of body adornment trade in northern america.

native american


bai-de-schluch-a-ichin or be-ich-schluck-ich-in-et-tzuzzigi (slender silversmith) metal beater, navajo silversmith, photo george ben wittick, 1883

native american jewellery personal adornment, in forms of necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings, pins, brooches, labrets, , more, made indigenous peoples of united states. native american jewellery reflects cultural diversity , history of makers. native american tribes continue develop distinct aesthetics rooted in personal artistic visions , cultural traditions. artists create jewellery adornment, ceremonies, , trade. lois sherr dubin writes, [i]n absence of written languages, adornment became important element of indian [native american] communication, conveying many levels of information. later, jewellery , personal adornment ...signaled resistance assimilation. remains major statement of tribal , individual identity.

metalsmiths, beaders, carvers, , lapidaries combine variety of metals, hardwoods, precious , semi-precious gemstones, beadwork, quillwork, teeth, bones, hide, vegetal fibres, , other materials create jewellery. contemporary native american jewellery ranges hand-quarried , processed stones , shells computer-fabricated steel , titanium jewellery.

pacific

jewellery making in pacific started later in other areas because of recent human settlement. pacific jewellery made of bone, wood, , other natural materials, , has not survived. pacific jewellery worn above waist, headdresses, necklaces, hair pins, , arm , waist belts being common pieces.

jewellery in pacific, exception of australia, worn symbol of either fertility or power. elaborate headdresses worn many pacific cultures , some, such inhabitants of papua new guinea, wear headdresses once have killed enemy. tribesman may wear boar bones through noses.

island jewellery still primal because of lack of communication outside cultures. areas of borneo , papua new guinea yet explored western nations. however, island nations flooded western missionaries have had drastic changes made jewellery designs. missionaries saw type of tribal jewellery sign of wearer s devotion paganism. many tribal designs lost forever in mass conversion christianity.

a modern opal bracelet

australia number 1 supplier of opals in world. opals had been mined in europe , south america many years prior, in late 19th century, australian opal market became predominant. australian opals mined in few select places around country, making 1 of profitable stones in pacific.

the new zealand māori traditionally had strong culture of personal adornment, famously hei-tiki. hei-tikis traditionally carved hand bone, nephrite, or bowenite.

nowadays wide range of such traditionally inspired items such bone carved pendants based on traditional fishhooks hei matau , other greenstone jewellery popular young new zealanders of backgrounds – whom relate generalized sense of new zealand identity. these trends have contributed towards worldwide interest in traditional māori culture , arts.

other jewellery created through māori influence, modern jewellery in new zealand multicultural , varied.