Romanticism Jewellery

mourning jewellery in form of jet brooch, 19th century.

starting in late 18th century, romanticism had profound impact on development of western jewellery. perhaps significant influences public’s fascination treasures being discovered through birth of modern archaeology , fascination medieval , renaissance art. changing social conditions , onset of industrial revolution led growth of middle class wanted , afford jewellery. result, use of industrial processes, cheaper alloys, , stone substitutes led development of paste or costume jewellery. distinguished goldsmiths continued flourish, however, wealthier patrons sought ensure wore still stood apart jewellery of masses, not through use of precious metals , stones though superior artistic , technical work. 1 such artist french goldsmith françois-désiré froment-meurice. category unique period , quite appropriate philosophy of romanticism mourning jewellery. originated in england, queen victoria seen wearing jet jewellery after death of prince albert, , allowed wearer continue wearing jewellery while expressing state of mourning @ death of loved one.

in united states, period saw founding in 1837 of tiffany & co. charles lewis tiffany. tiffany s put united states on world map in terms of jewellery , gained fame creating dazzling commissions people such wife of abraham lincoln. later, gain popular notoriety setting of film breakfast @ tiffany s. in france, pierre cartier founded cartier sa in 1847, while 1884 saw founding of bulgari in italy. modern production studio had been born , step away former dominance of individual craftsmen , patronage.

this period saw first major collaboration between east , west. collaboration in pforzheim between german , japanese artists led shakudō plaques set filigree frames being created stoeffler firm in 1885). perhaps grand finalé – , appropriate transition following period – masterful creations of russian artist peter carl fabergé, working imperial russian court, fabergé eggs , jewellery pieces still considered epitome of goldsmith’s art.