Europe and the Middle East Jewellery

1 europe , middle east

1.1 mesopotamia
1.2 greece
1.3 rome
1.4 middle ages
1.5 renaissance
1.6 romanticism
1.7 18th century / romanticism/ renaissance
1.8 art nouveau
1.9 art deco

europe , middle east
mesopotamia

pair of gold hair ornaments, mesopotamian, circa 2000 bc (isin-larsa period). decorated granulation , cloisonné. walters art museum collections.

by approximately 5,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become significant craft in cities of mesopotamia. significant archaeological evidence comes royal cemetery of ur, hundreds of burials dating 2900–2300 bc unearthed; tombs such of puabi contained multitude of artefacts in gold, silver, , semi-precious stones, such lapis lazuli crowns embellished gold figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, , jewel-headed pins. in assyria, men , women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including amulets, ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, , cylinder seals.

jewellery in mesopotamia tended manufactured thin metal leaf , set large numbers of brightly coloured stones (chiefly agate, lapis, carnelian, , jasper). favoured shapes included leaves, spirals, cones, , bunches of grapes. jewellers created works both human use , adorning statues , idols. employed wide variety of sophisticated metalworking techniques, such cloisonné, engraving, fine granulation, , filigree.

extensive , meticulously maintained records pertaining trade , manufacture of jewellery have been unearthed throughout mesopotamian archaeological sites. 1 record in mari royal archives, example, gives composition of various items of jewellery:

1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 34 flat speckled chalcedony bead, [and] 35 gold fluted beads, in groups of five.
1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 39 flat speckled chalcedony beads, [with] 41 fluted beads in group make hanging device.
1 necklace rounded lapis lazuli beads including: 28 rounded lapis lazuli beads, [and] 29 fluted beads clasp.


greece

gold earring mycenae, 16th century bc.



gold wreath

the greeks started using gold , gems in jewellery in 1600 bc, although beads shaped shells , animals produced in earlier times. around 1500 bc, main techniques of working gold in greece included casting, twisting bars, , making wire. many of these sophisticated techniques popular in mycenaean period, unfortunately skill lost @ end of bronze age. forms , shapes of jewellery in ancient greece such armring (13th century bc), brooch (10th century bc) , pins (7th century bc), have varied since bronze age well. other forms of jewellery include wreaths, earrings, necklace , bracelets. example of high quality gold working techniques achieve in greece ‘gold olive wreath’ (4th century bc), modeled on type of wreath given prize winners in athletic competitions olympic games. jewellery dating 600 475 bc not represented in archaeological record, after persian wars quantity of jewellery again became more plentiful. 1 particularly popular type of design @ time bracelet decorated snake , animal-heads because these bracelets used considerably more metal, many examples made bronze. 300 bc, greeks had mastered making coloured jewellery , using amethysts, pearl, , emeralds. also, first signs of cameos appeared, greeks creating them indian sardonyx, striped brown pink , cream agate stone. greek jewellery simpler in other cultures, simple designs , workmanship. however, time progressed, designs grew in complexity , different materials used.

pendant naked woman, made electrum, rhodes, around 630–620 bc.

jewellery in greece hardly worn , used public appearances or on special occasions. given gift , predominantly worn women show wealth, social status, , beauty. jewellery supposed give wearer protection evil eye or endowed owner supernatural powers, while others had religious symbolism. older pieces of jewellery have been found dedicated gods.

ancient greek jewellery 300 bc.

they worked 2 styles of pieces: cast pieces , pieces hammered out of sheet metal. fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered. made casting metal onto 2 stone or clay moulds. 2 halves joined together, , wax, followed molten metal, placed in centre. technique had been practised since late bronze age. more common form of jewellery hammered sheet type. sheets of metal hammered thickness , soldered together. inside of 2 sheets filled wax or liquid preserve metal work. different techniques, such using stamp or engraving, used create motifs on jewellery. jewels may added hollows or glass poured special cavities on surface. greeks took of designs outer origins, such asia, when alexander great conquered part of it. in earlier designs, other european influences can detected. when roman rule came greece, no change in jewellery designs detected. however, 27 bc, greek designs heavily influenced roman culture. not indigenous design did not thrive. numerous polychrome butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating 1st century, have been found near olbia, 1 example ever found anywhere else.

these hellenistic bracelets 1st century bc show influence of eastern cultures. walters art museum, baltimore.



hexagonal gold pendant double solidus of constantine great, 1 of set of 4 date 321 ad (british museum)


rome

roman amethyst intaglio engraved gem, c. 212 ad; later regarded of st. peter.

although jewellery work abundantly diverse in earlier times, among barbarian tribes such celts, when romans conquered of europe, jewellery changed smaller factions developed roman designs. common artefact of rome brooch, used secure clothing together. romans used diverse range of materials jewellery extensive resources across continent. although used gold, used bronze or bone, , in earlier times, glass beads & pearl. 2,000 years ago, imported sri lankan sapphires , indian diamonds , used emeralds , amber in jewellery. in roman-ruled england, fossilised wood called jet northern england carved pieces of jewellery. italians worked in crude gold , created clasps, necklaces, earrings, , bracelets. produced larger pendants filled perfume.

like greeks, purpose of roman jewellery ward off evil eye given other people. although women wore vast array of jewellery, men wore finger ring. although expected wear @ least 1 ring, roman men wore ring on every finger, while others wore none. roman men , women wore rings engraved gem on used wax seal documents, practice continued medieval times when kings , noblemen used same method. after fall of roman empire, jewellery designs absorbed neighbouring countries , tribes.

middle ages

merovingian fibulae, bibliothèque nationale de france.



6th century bronze eagle-shaped visigothic cloisonné fibula guadalajara, spain, using glass-paste fillings in imitation of garnets.

post-roman europe continued develop jewellery making skills. celts , merovingians in particular noted jewellery, in terms of quality matched or exceeded of byzantine empire. clothing fasteners, amulets, and, lesser extent, signet rings, common artefacts known us. particularly striking celtic example tara brooch. torc common throughout europe symbol of status , power. 8th century, jewelled weaponry common men, while other jewellery (with exception of signet rings) seemed become domain of women. grave goods found in 6th–7th century burial near chalon-sur-saône illustrative. young girl buried with: 2 silver fibulae, necklace (with coins), bracelet, gold earrings, pair of hair-pins, comb, , buckle. celts specialised in continuous patterns , designs, while merovingian designs best known stylised animal figures. not groups known high quality work. note visigoth work shown here, , numerous decorative objects found @ anglo-saxon ship burial @ sutton hoo suffolk, england particularly well-known example. on continent, cloisonné , garnet perhaps quintessential method , gemstone of period.

byzantine wedding ring.

the eastern successor of roman empire, byzantine empire, continued many of methods of romans, though religious themes came predominate. unlike romans, franks, , celts, however, byzantium used light-weight gold leaf rather solid gold, , more emphasis placed on stones , gems. in west, byzantine jewellery worn wealthier females, male jewellery apparently restricted signet rings. woman s jewellery had peculiarities kolts decorated headband. other contemporary cultures, jewellery commonly buried owner.

renaissance

sardonyx cameo.

the renaissance , exploration both had significant impacts on development of jewellery in europe. 17th century, increasing exploration , trade led increased availability of wide variety of gemstones exposure art of other cultures. whereas prior working of gold , precious metal had been @ forefront of jewellery, period saw increasing dominance of gemstones , settings. example of cheapside hoard, stock of jeweller hidden in london during commonwealth period , not found again until 1912. contained colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite brazil, spinel, iolite, , chrysoberyl sri lanka, ruby india, afghan lapis lazuli, persian turquoise, red sea peridot, bohemian , hungarian opal, garnet, , amethyst. large stones set in box-bezels on enamelled rings. notable among merchants of period jean-baptiste tavernier, brought precursor stone of hope diamond france in 1660s.

when napoleon bonaparte crowned emperor of french in 1804, revived style , grandeur of jewellery , fashion in france. under napoleon’s rule, jewellers introduced parures, suites of matching jewellery, such diamond tiara, diamond earrings, diamond rings, diamond brooch, , diamond necklace. both of napoleon’s wives had beautiful sets such these , wore them regularly. fashion trend resurrected napoleon cameo. after cameo decorated crown seen, cameos highly sought. period saw stages of costume jewellery, fish scale covered glass beads in place of pearls or conch shell cameos instead of stone cameos. new terms coined differentiate arts: jewellers worked in cheaper materials called bijoutiers, while jewellers worked expensive materials called joailliers, practice continues day.

romanticism

mourning jewellery in form of jet brooch, 19th century.

starting in late 18th century, romanticism had profound impact on development of western jewellery. perhaps significant influences public’s fascination treasures being discovered through birth of modern archaeology , fascination medieval , renaissance art. changing social conditions , onset of industrial revolution led growth of middle class wanted , afford jewellery. result, use of industrial processes, cheaper alloys, , stone substitutes led development of paste or costume jewellery. distinguished goldsmiths continued flourish, however, wealthier patrons sought ensure wore still stood apart jewellery of masses, not through use of precious metals , stones though superior artistic , technical work. 1 such artist french goldsmith françois-désiré froment-meurice. category unique period , quite appropriate philosophy of romanticism mourning jewellery. originated in england, queen victoria seen wearing jet jewellery after death of prince albert, , allowed wearer continue wearing jewellery while expressing state of mourning @ death of loved one.

in united states, period saw founding in 1837 of tiffany & co. charles lewis tiffany. tiffany s put united states on world map in terms of jewellery , gained fame creating dazzling commissions people such wife of abraham lincoln. later, gain popular notoriety setting of film breakfast @ tiffany s. in france, pierre cartier founded cartier sa in 1847, while 1884 saw founding of bulgari in italy. modern production studio had been born , step away former dominance of individual craftsmen , patronage.

this period saw first major collaboration between east , west. collaboration in pforzheim between german , japanese artists led shakudō plaques set filigree frames being created stoeffler firm in 1885). perhaps grand finalé – , appropriate transition following period – masterful creations of russian artist peter carl fabergé, working imperial russian court, fabergé eggs , jewellery pieces still considered epitome of goldsmith’s art.

18th century / romanticism/ renaissance

many whimsical fashions introduced in extravagant eighteenth century. cameos used in connection jewellery attractive trinkets along many of small objects such brooches, ear-rings , scarf-pins. of necklets made of several pieces joined gold chains in , bracelets made match necklet , brooch. @ end of century jewellery cut steel intermixed large crystals introduced englishman, matthew boulton of birmingham.

art nouveau

in 1890s, jewellers began explore potential of growing art nouveau style , closely related german jugendstil, british (and extent american) arts , crafts movement, catalan modernisme, austro-hungarian sezession, italian liberty , etc.

art nouveau jewellery encompassed many distinct features including focus on female form , emphasis on colour, commonly rendered through use of enamelling techniques including basse-taille, champleve, cloisonné, , plique-à-jour. motifs included orchids, irises, pansies, vines, swans, peacocks, snakes, dragonflies, mythological creatures, , female silhouette.

rené lalique, working paris shop of samuel bing, recognised contemporaries leading figure in trend. darmstadt artists colony , wiener werkstätte provided perhaps significant input trend, while in denmark georg jensen, though best known silverware, contributed significant pieces. in england, liberty & co. , british arts & crafts movement of charles robert ashbee contributed more linear still characteristic designs. new style moved focus of jeweller s art setting of stones artistic design of piece itself. lalique s dragonfly design 1 of best examples of this. enamels played large role in technique, while sinuous organic lines recognisable design feature.

the end of world war once again changed public attitudes, , more sober style developed.

art deco

growing political tensions, after-effects of war, , reaction against perceived decadence of turn of 20th century led simpler forms, combined more effective manufacturing mass production of high-quality jewellery. covering period of 1920s , 1930s, style has become popularly known art deco. walter gropius , german bauhaus movement, philosophy of no barriers between artists , craftsmen led interesting , stylistically simplified forms. modern materials introduced: plastics , aluminium first used in jewellery, , of note chromed pendants of russian-born bauhaus master naum slutzky. technical mastery became valued material itself. in west, period saw reinvention of granulation german elizabeth treskow, although development of re-invention has continued 1990s. based on basic shapes.